JDM Hub / Reference
Nearly every JDM import starts life as a line on a Japanese auction sheet. The overall grade is the fastest signal of condition — and the most misunderstood. Here is what each grade actually means, and what to check beyond it.
Grades vary between auction houses. USS, TAA, HAA, JU and the regional houses use similar scales but apply them with different strictness — a USS 4.5 is not automatically a TAA 4.5. Compare grades within a house, and treat the sheet details as the real source of truth.
Under ~5,000 km, essentially showroom condition. Rare at auction and priced accordingly — expect a substantial premium over grade 5.
As close to perfect as a used car gets. Some auction houses cap their scale at 5 and never issue a 6 — house conventions differ.
The collector sweet spot: presentable, original, only minor age-related wear. Clean panels, no notable repairs on the sheet.
One or two small scratches or dings noted on the diagram. A strong buy for a car you intend to drive, not just store.
Visible wear — dents, scratches, small paint touch-ups marked on the map. Check the panel notations carefully; two grade-4 cars can differ a lot.
Multiple cosmetic issues. Budget real money for paint and detailing on top of the hammer price before it presents well.
Heavy cosmetic wear, possible rust or older poor-quality repairs. Project territory — only with a thorough translated sheet and extra photos.
Significant corrosion or deterioration. Usually parts cars or full restoration candidates.
Often denotes major modification (engine swap, aftermarket turbo) or flood/fire history depending on the house. Read the sheet notes, do not guess.
The auction house confirms accident repair. RA usually means minor repair, R more substantial. Some R cars are excellent value with quality repairs — some are not. Always request extra photos and a translated damage description.
No grade assigned — incomplete data, dealer consignment quirks or very old listings. Treat as unknown condition and inspect accordingly.
Most houses issue a separate interior grade alongside the overall grade (some use numeric interior scales instead). Exterior sub-grades follow the same letters at several houses.
Clean interior, minimal wear — what you want on a collector car.
Normal wear for age and mileage: light bolster wear, minor scuffs.
Noticeable wear — worn seats, scratched trim, possible cigarette burns.
Heavy wear or damage: torn seats, broken trim, strong odours. Budget for retrim.
The car outline is annotated with letter-number codes: A = scratch, U = dent, W = repair wave/paint, S = rust, C = corrosion, X = needs replacement (XX = replaced). The number indicates severity (1 small to 3+ large). A grade 4 with one A1 is very different from a grade 4 with W2 on three panels.
Odometer reading is recorded with a $ or # style mark when the house believes it genuine, and flagged (often '?' or 'RM') when it cannot be verified or has been replaced. Outright odometer fraud is rare at major houses — unverifiable history is the more common issue.
The handwritten notes section carries the substance: aftermarket parts, smoking odour, engine noise, non-original paint. Always get this section translated by someone who reads auction shorthand, not machine translation.
Grades are primarily cosmetic and structural assessments made in minutes. A grade 4.5 can still need a clutch, timing service or turbo seals. Factor a post-arrival inspection and baseline service into any budget.
R/RA cars trade at a meaningful discount. Quality panel repair after a minor hit can be a bargain; a poorly pulled chassis is not. The discount only makes sense when you know which one you are bidding on.
Estimate the full landed cost before the auction, not after.